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ANEI are an organisation of Native Agroecological Producers and Farmers from the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta and the Serranía del Perijá regions.
It was founded in 1995 by Aurora Izquierdo, the first Arhuaca native woman from the Yewrwa community who decided to study in Bogotá, Colombia’s capital. Her objective was to restructure the economy of the native and farmer communities. She is seen as a leader who used coffee as a platform to promote the cultural presence of the indigenous communities of Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta and Serranía del Perijá.
History of ANEI
Based in Valledupar in the Sierra Nevada, ANEI predominantly work with the indigenous communities. Founded in 1995 by Aurora Izquierdo, the organisation is now led by her sons Juan Sebastian and Jorge, members of the Arhuaca community.
“Anei” simply means “delicious” in the Arhuaca language.
At the heart of Anei is a commitment to preserving and protecting their cultures, which are deeply integrated into daily life.
The Sierra Nevada, considered the heart of the world, rises to 5700 meters above sea level and boasts some of the highest biodiversity levels globally. Recognised as a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1982, the indigenous people of Sierra Nevada were acknowledged as part of the World Heritage in 2022.
Historically the indigenous communities were persecuted by Spanish colonisers and missionaries, who attempted to eradicate their cultures and languages, separating children from their parents through orphanages. Through thier dogged resistance the indigenous communities have gradually gained recognition from both the Colombian government and culture since the 1980s.
In the 1970s, a concious effort was made to provide indigenous children access to education. Five children from each community, including Aurora at 15, were selected to study in the city. After her education, Aurora returned to her community, bringing back her knowledge and establishing ANEI.
Initially met with resistance, she persisted, demonstrating how cultivating coffee could benefit the entire community.
Anei now includes 600 families, exporting 90 containers of coffee annually. All members are Fairtrade and Organic (FTO) compliant. While everything they produce is FTO, only 70% is sold as such.
They primarily work with the Colombia varietal but some farmers are experimenting with other varieties. They have a team of seven agronomists and three buying stations in Pueblo Bello, Codazzi, and Valledupar, each with a Q grader.
Anei considers all their coffee as family coffee, emphasising unity rather than creating divisions within the community. While they have women’s and youth associations, they avoid labeling coffee as such, believing that couples and families are stronger together. They aim to sustain their communities for generations, currently being in their second generation with aspirations for a seventh.
Their focus is on sustainability and self-sufficiency, teaching members to work with the natural environment and grow a variety of fruit and vegetables for trade within villages. Maximising yield is less important than sustainable practices that ensure long-term security for these farmers. Some members even align farming practices with lunar cycles.
This center is run by Alcira Judith Izquierdo Torres (Aurora’s Niece) along with 5 others that work there too. This center was set up in 2011, receiving coffee from over 200 members. Although dry parchment is delivered primarily, they also have dryers for wet parchment.
The challenging terrain of the Sierra Nevada mountains, with its steep inclines makes it very difficult and exhausting for individual producers to deliver thier small parcels of coffee cherry to the collection centers. The solution is to appoint a representative from each locality who collects the coffee from around 20 producers and then makes the trip to deliver. This makes more sense as the volume of an individual producer is usually to small to make the trip worth their time and effort. A round trip journey can often take anywhere between 5-10 hours for many of the producers. As the biggest of the 3 collection centres, Pueblo Bello receives 1 million kilos of parchment per year and as per protocol, they would cup the coffee with the delivering producer.
Coffee came to Colombia in the late 1700s by way of Jesuit priests who were among the Spanish colonists. The first plantings were in the north of the country, in the Santander and Boyaca departments. Throughout the 19th century, coffee plants spread through the country, with a smaller average farm size than more commonly found throughout other Latin American producing countries.
Commercial production and export of coffee started in the first decade of the 1800s, but remained somewhat limited until the 20th century: The 1927 establishment of the Federación Nacional de Cafeteros de Colombia (aka FNC, see below) was a tremendous boost to the national coffee industry & Colombia quickly established itself as a major coffee-growing region, vying with Brazil and Vietnam for the title of top global producer.
Colombia still produces exclusively Arabica coffee, and though the country suffered setbacks and lower yields from an outbreak of coffee-leaf rust in the early 2010s, production has bounced back thanks to the development and spread of disease-resistant plants, as well as aggressive treatment and preventative techniques.
REGIONALITY
Colombia’s size alone certainly contributes to the different profiles that its 20 coffee-growing departments (out of a total 32) express in the cup, but even within growing regions there are plentiful variations due to the microclimates created by mountainous terrain, wind patterns, proximity to the Equator, and, of course, differences in varieties and processing techniques.
The country’s northern regions (e.g. Santa Marta and Santander) with their higher temperatures and lower altitudes, offer full-bodied coffees with less brightness and snap; the central “coffee belt” of Antioquia, Caldas, and Quindio among others, where the bulk of the country’s production lies, produce those easy-drinking “breakfast blend” types, with soft nuttiness and big sweetness but low acidity. The southwestern departments of Nariño, Cauca, and Huila tend to have higher altitude farms, which comes through in more complex acidity and heightened floral notes in the profiles.
To capitalize on this broad spectrum of flavours and to emphasize the diversity available to roasters and consumers from within a single country, the coffee growers’ association has begun to provide origin distinctions, and has developed aggressive marketing campaigns designed to boost the regions’ signals to buyers worldwide.
NATIONAL FEDERATION OF COFFEE GROWERS
Founded in 1927, the Federación Nacional de Cafeteros de Colombia (aka the National Federation of Coffee Growers, hence the “FNC” abbreviation) is a large NGO that provides a wide variety of services and support to the country’s coffee producers, regardless of the size of their landholdings or the volume of their production. The marketing arm of the FNC develops campaigns to push not only international consumption of Colombian coffee, but also, more recently, domestic consumption of speciality-grade Colombian coffees. (The creation of the Juan Valdez “character” in the 1950s is the clearest example of the outward-facing advertising that has built the FNC’s reputation; the creation and spread of Juan Valdez cafes in-country continues the institution’s mission to grow domestic consumption as well.)
The FNC also guarantees a purchase price for any coffee grown within Colombia, which provides some degree of financial security to farmers: They have the option to find private buyers or break into speciality markets, or they can tender their coffee to the FNC and receive a somewhat stable (if also rather standard, influenced by the global commodities market) price at any point during the year. This is designed to eliminate some of the market pressures and provide reliable income to the coffee sector, though it also comes under criticism for disincentivising the development of super-speciality lots and microlots.
The scientific arm of the organization, Cenicafé, is devoted to research, development, dissemination, and support throughout the country. A wide-ranging extension service employing more than 1,500 field workers is deployed to meet and consult with farmers on soil management, processing techniques, variety selection, disease prevention & treatment & other agricultural aspects to coffee farming. A tax is imposed on all coffee exports in order to fund this work as well as the other provisions and protections that the FNC offers, regardless of a producer’s participation or use of FNC services, marketplace, and programs.
The FNC also built and operates a coffee theme park in Quindío (Parque Nacional del Café), in collaboration with the Department Committee of Coffee Growers of Quindío: In it is a coffee-history museum, a coffee garden, an example of a traditional farmer’s house, and a roller coaster called “La Broca.”
Great News !!! The ANEI Colombian coffee is back. Grown by the Arhuaca community of Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta & the Serranía del Perijá.